BEYOND THE FOLD

Subversive narratives and visual experiments in fashion media

A Master thesis by Mariachiara Di Costanzo

This research explores how visual disruption and subversive narratives can redefine the fashion magazine as a post-digital artefact, in a landscape shaped by the decline of print and the aesthetic homogenisation of social media. The theoretical framework blends media studies, cultural theory, and philosophy, supported by emblematic case studies such as Dazed, 032c, The Face, Vestoj, Viscose Journal, and Buffalo Zine, illustrating how alternative editorial practices merge aesthetics, critical content, and formal experimentation.

Qualitative methods included in-depth and wardrobe interviews, revealing how readers interact with fashion media in ways that go beyond digital consumption. The findings highlight three trajectories: visual disturbance as a generator of critical friction and reflective reading; the archival and material value of print as a complement to digital; and slow, chaotic, and intuitive editorial practices as forms of resistance to rapid, standardised production.

From a practical perspective, this approach led to the creation of IRREVERENT FRUSTRATION, an experimental magazine conceived as a hybrid laboratory bridging paper and digital. With irregular graphics, varied papers, raw and fragmented writing, and interactive QR codes, the magazine invites readers to shift seamlessly between tactile and digital experiences.

Ultimately, the research demonstrates that fashion magazines can function as spaces of cultural and visual experimentation, where materials, form, and content collaborate to generate critical meaning. Rather than objects for passive consumption, they operate as experiential devices, challenging conventions, promoting deceleration, and celebrating plural editorial languages. Reading becomes a tool for reflection and resistance, positioning post-digital publishing not merely as technological adaptation but as a radical rethinking of what a magazine can be today.

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The impact of cultural appropriation on consumers' behaviour - A critical research project