The art of layering
When too much is never enough
As Iris Apfel once said: “More is more, and less is a bore.” Following her words, in a time still dominated by minimalism, the art of layering is making an unapologetic comeback in its 2.0 version.
Celebrating excess and experimentation, layering has always been a part of fashion’s DNA: it’s a styling hack born out of function, status, and culture. Since its rise in the 1970s, when Bohemians embraced mismatched layer of lace, suede, and denim, to the ‘90s grunge kids in slip dresses over t-shirts, layering has been a visual rebellion. Then came the chaotic 00s, when it was taken to extremes: how can we forget Disney Channel’s red carpet moments? An ode to Ashley Tisdale, absolute queen of layering, who confidently stacked shimmery skirts over skinny jeans, at least two t-shirts, and, of course, a pink boa.
Layering it’s remixing. It’s about challenging fashion norms, reviving old pieces, and creating unexpected silhouettes. However, if in the past layering brought to mind Avril Lavigne’s iconic tie-over-tank-top look, today’s approach comes with a new set of rules. Contrast takes center stage, with sheer organza draped over structured leather, wool coats thrown over silk dresses, and chunky knits meeting delicate mesh in a playful clash of textures.
Volume reigns supreme, as oversized blazers swallow fitted hoodies, puffer vests stack over tailored jackets, and skirts layer upon skirts. The magic lies in the unexpected: dresses paired with baggy cargo pants, corsets cinching over t-shirts, and even two coats worn together with effortless defiance. Does it feel ‘wrong’? You’re doing it right.
Layering plays into fashion’s circular economy. It’s about reworking what already exists, giving new life to past trends, and making personal style more fluid and adaptable. With a shift toward slow fashion, people are getting more creative with what’s already in their wardrobes; and by stacking, clashing, and remaking, layering makes the old feel new again.
Luxury fashion has long played with layering as a conceptual statement. Maison Margiela, a brand synonymous with deconstruction, has turned layering into an art form with inside-out tailoring, reconstructed garments, and unfinished hems that reveal hidden layers.
Balenciaga, under Demna’s vision, has pushed layering to absurdist extremes with puffer jackets over hoodies over shirts, all stacked into one exaggerated silhouette, blurring the line between fashion and performance art. Then there’s Rick Owens, the master of dystopian layering, whose draped leather jackets, elongated tunics, and stacked silhouettes, create a look that’s both brutalist and ethereal. This evolution of layering speaks to a larger shift in fashion - one that values experimentation over perfection, and narrative over trends.
If there’s one place where layering dominates, it’s street style. Copenhagen’s structured minimalism collides with chaotic layering, while Tokyo’s fashion tribes push layering to avant-garde extremes. From New York’s thrift-store grunge to London’s high-low mix, the streets are proving that layering isn’t just a trend, it’s a mindset.
And so, to answer Joey Tribbiani’s question: Yes, yes you can be wearing more clothes.
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